The best fabric scissors: size, grind and the difference from household scissors

Most sewing projects don't fail because of the machine, but because of the cutting. And that depends on a tool many people consider interchangeable: the scissors. This guide explains the difference between fabric and household scissors, which size suits which job, and how to recognise scissors that will still cut in ten years' time.

The most important sentence first

Fabric scissors cut fabric only. No paper, no cardboard, no adhesive tape. Paper contains mineral fillers that act like a fine abrasive – a few cuts are enough to ruin a finely ground blade. After that the scissors push the fabric ahead of them instead of separating it.

That is why a household needs two pairs of scissors, not one: household scissors for everything else and fabric scissors that nobody else uses. Anyone who asks one pair to do both buys a new one every two years.

Fabric scissors, tailor's shears, household scissors – what is what?

• Household scissors. The all-rounder. Sturdy, robust blade, straight handles, usually 5.5 to 7 inches. For packaging, cardboard, herbs, flower stems.
• Fabric scissors. More finely ground, longer blade, often slightly angled. Separates textiles cleanly without the edge fraying.
• Tailor's shears. The big sister – a much more strongly angled handle and blades from around 8 inches. The bend keeps the fabric lying flat on the table while you cut. That is exactly why a straight cut succeeds.
• Embroidery scissors. Small and pointed, for detail work, notching seam allowances and shaping corners.
• Thread snips. Sprung, without finger rings, held in the hand. For quickly trimming right at the seam.
• Pinking shears. Cut a zigzag edge that frays less – the simplest way to finish edges without an overlocker.

Which size suits which job?

Scissor sizes are traditionally given in inches, measured over the overall length. The relationship is simple: a longer blade means more leverage, so less effort per cut – but less control on tight curves.

• 3.5 to 4.5 inches – embroidery scissors and thread snips. Thread ends, seam allowances, appliqué.
• 5 to 6 inches – small fabric scissors and the classic household size. Good for repairs and fine fabrics.
• 7 to 8 inches – the all-purpose size for cutting out. If you buy only one pair of fabric scissors, buy these.
• 9 to 12 inches – tailor's shears for long, straight cuts, several layers of fabric, leather and felt. Heavy, but unbeatable when cutting out larger pieces.

Which scissors for which material?

• Cotton, linen, woven fabric. Uncritical. A pair of 8-inch fabric scissors is enough.
• Jersey and stretch fabrics. Tend to slip away. A long blade pays off here so you can pull through in one go instead of making many small cuts – every stop leaves a step.
• Silk and fine fabrics. Demand a really sharp, fine blade. Blunt scissors pull threads.
• Felt, leather, carpet, several layers. Heavy work. Large tailor's shears with a high material thickness.
• Interfacing and fusible interfacing. The hardest case – adhesive builds up on the blade. Clean it afterwards with a little alcohol.

How to recognise good scissors

• Screw instead of rivet. The single most important feature. Only screwed scissors can be readjusted when the action becomes loose over the years – and only they can be sharpened. Riveted scissors are disposable goods.
• Cutting right to the tip. Hold the scissors up to the light and close them slowly. The blades must pass each other along their entire length and separate right to the tip, not crush.
• Clean, even action. No catching, no jamming, no lateral play.
• Hardened, rustproof stainless steel. Keeps the edge longer and tolerates moisture. What the individual designations mean is explained in Rustproof, nickel-plated, stainless steel.
• Weight that suits your hand. Heavy scissors work for you; scissors that are too heavy tire you out. That is not a quality feature but a personal decision.

Scissors for textile work

The complete range: fabric scissors & tailor's shears

When the hand can't manage as well any more

One point that rarely appears in scissor tests: the effort required. Anyone with arthritis in their fingers, or who cuts out for long stretches at a time, immediately feels the difference between smooth-running and stiff scissors.

• Choose a longer blade – more leverage, less force per cut.
• Look for a well-adjusted joint. Scissors that run stiffly are often not blunt, just too tight or dry.
• Pinking shears generally need more force than plain blades – here it is particularly worth reaching for the smoother-running model.
• Related topic: Cutting nails with reduced hand strength.

Left-handers: not marketing, but mechanics

On right-handed scissors the upper blade sits so that the pressure of the hand pulls the blades together. A left-hander pushes them apart with the same movement – the fabric slips between them instead of being cut. On top of that, the cutting line is hidden from view.

Genuine left-handed scissors have mirrored blades, not just mirrored handles. Why that makes all the difference is explained in Scissors for left-handers. You will find our range for this under Instruments for left-handers.

Scissors for household and paper

The complete range: household scissors

Care – and why blunt scissors are not a case for the bin

• Dry them after contact with moisture. Not in the dishwasher – dishwasher salt attacks the blade, and the heat damages the joint.
• Occasionally put a drop of oil into the joint, then open and close them several times.
• Remove adhesive residue with a little alcohol, do not scrape it off.
• Store them separately, not loose in the drawer among other tools.
• And if they do go blunt: screwed Solingen scissors can be re-sharpened. Our sharpening service does this – usually cheaper than new scissors, and you keep the pair you are used to. When it is worth it and when it is not is explained in Having scissors sharpened.

Frequently asked questions

• Is one pair of scissors enough for everything? No – for the one reason already given: paper. Two inexpensive pairs last longer than one expensive pair that has to do both jobs.
• Does it have to be Solingen? It doesn't have to be, but it pays off wherever you cut a lot. The difference lies in the grind and in the fact that the scissors can be readjusted and sharpened. What the name means legally is explained in Made in Solingen.
• Why are tailor's shears angled? So that the hand stays above the tabletop and the fabric stays lying flat. Lifted fabric distorts – and then the cut is no longer accurate.
• What to do if the scissors catch? First check the screw and oil it. Only then think about sharpening.

Categories: fabric scissors & tailor's shears · household scissors · instruments for left-handers · kitchen knives

Read on: How a Solingen scissor is made · The anatomy of a scissor · Scissors for left-handers